Beneath its terracotta rooftops, the streets of Bologna shelter a prized possession: a cuisine shaped by generations. Italy’s “red city” has an affinity for food, and is widely credited as the birthplace of spaghetti Bolognese, which, incidentally, is actually Tagliatelle al Ragù.

For food enthusiasts, there is nothing better than wandering its porticoes, markets, and restaurants. It’s simply a question of knowing where to go and what to try. Here’s how to explore Bologna using your taste buds.

Dishes to Try

As the saying goes, “when in Rome, do as the Romans do.” When it comes to things to do, Bologna is a treasure trove for sampling traditional dishes. Prioritize the following:

Tagliatelle al Ragù: egg-based pasta with a meat-based sauce (which, importantly, isn’t overwhelmed with tomatoes, like the Bolognese outside of Italy).

Prosciutto di Parma: dry-cured ham from the hind legs of specific pigs.

Parmigiano Reggiano: a hard, granular cheese made from cow’s milk.

Mortadella di Bologna: a traditional pork sausage with strict seasoning, often including pepper, truffle, or garlic.

Cotoletta alla Bolognese: a breaded veal cutlet that’s topped with prosciutto and Parmesan cheese.

Grana Padano: a nutty and crumbly hard cheese, made from partially-skimmed cow milk.

Markets in Bologna

From stalls of flapping plastic to stores set in stone, Bologna’s ‘mercati’ are full of generational knowledge. These spaces are pillars of community, and for many stall-owners, a rewarding source of livelihood. As a tourist, visiting markets in Bologna is an opportunity to appreciate the city’s cuisine at a grassroots level.

Quadrilatero: the oldest ‘mercato’ in Bologna is the medieval district of Quadrilatero, with twisting alleyways and stores that spill into the streetfront. Within Quadrilatero, Mercato di Mezzo is a designated food market, which opens from 9am daily.

Mercato delle Erbe: set just outside of the Old Town, this market is a tried-and-tested favorite amongst locals, opening from Monday to Saturday from 7am. Brush shoulders with nonnas purchasing local produce, meats, and cheeses. In the evening, Mercato delle Erbe takes a sociable turn, with pizzas and aperitifs.

Mercato Albani: a slightly grittier, downtown market situated just north of Bologna Centrale. This neighborhood haunt offers an unfiltered insight into local cuisine.

Breakfast in Bologna

Start on the right foot. Milk-based coffees are acceptable in the morning (many consider espressos to be a digestion aid, enjoying these post-lunch or even post-dinner).

For breakfast near the Two Towers, head to Caffè Terzi Bologna, which serves artisanal coffee and pastries from 8am. This old-school cafe has a cream exterior with red lettering — impossible to miss. If wandering the Quadrilatero or Old Town is on your schedule this morning, then Caffè Terzi is an excellent pitstop.

Alternatively, Aroma Specialty Coffees serves premium roasts. Situated near the Basilica di San Francesco, it’s a short walk outside of the Old Town. Sample coffee from Ethiopia, Peru, Mexico, Colombia, and more. Afterward, you’re perfectly positioned to visit the Tombe dei Glossatori or Torre dell’Orologio.

Lunch in Bologna

When the clock strikes twelve, pick a market or play student. By midday, Mercato di Mezzo and Mercato delle Erbe are in full swing. Taste a traditional ragu, tortellini, or pizza.

If you chose the latter and are intrigued by the possibility of learning to cook, book a culinary workshop. Cooking is a massive part of Bologna’s cultural identity, with cooking schools dotted across the city center, including La Soffritta, Cesarine, and Pasta Risotto Bologna. Learn from the masters, and by 2pm, you’ll have new strings to your bow.

Famous for its culinary heritage, it’s also worthwhile visiting specialty stores in Bologna. Le Sfogline takes its name from the ‘sfogline,’ aka Italy’s traditional pasta-makers. Opened in 1996, this mother-and-daughter-run store sells traditional pasta and pre-prepared dishes, from tagliatelle with pistachio pesto to stuffed cappellacci with herb butter and brisket beef.

Dinner in Bologna

As one of Italy’s revered food capitals, it’s unsurprising that Bologna caught Michelin’s eye. There is a mixture of Bib Gourmand, Michelin-starred, and Michelin-recommended restaurants across the city.

Top picks include the Michelin-starred I Portici, which serves Mediterranean cuisine within the historic Eden Theater. Dining in a cavern-like space, guests peer through a glass floor for dizzying views of a prized wine cellar below.

Alternatively, take the traditional route with Trattoria da Me, a Michelin-recommended restaurant with an affinity for pasta. Established in 1937, Trattoria da Me uses only two ingredients to prepare pasta the “Bologna” way: fresh eggs and soft wheat flour.

Finish the evening with drinks at Osteria del Sole, Bologna’s oldest bar, or an illuminated stroll through the Piazza Maggiore.

Extra Time?

For foodies, Bologna is absolutely worth a visit, but don’t overlook the attractions on its doorstep. For a polished itinerary, allocate a further two days for day trips.

Just an hour from Bologna by train, Parma is the birthplace of Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano. To dive into the controversial origins of tortellini, Castelfranco Emilia is only 20 minutes from Bologna by train and has a ‘Tortellini Festival’ each September. If you’re more intrigued by vino than pasta, join a guided tasting tour and sample Pignoletto and Sangiovese wines in surrounding countryside vineyards.

Whether you treat Bologna as a launchpad for exploring regional cuisine or organize micro-experiences within the Old Town, this city revolves around food and community. For a culinary city break, you’ve really hit the jackpot.